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In Kuala Lumpur’s former red light district, a hotel with Wong Kar-wai-esque aesthetics

The Chow Kit, a stylish boutique hotel, is inspired by the area’s seedy past revitalizes a gritty neighborhood

September 21, 2020

Text: Sanjay Suarana

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A tin miner, public official and proprietor of a department store more than a century ago, Loke Chow Kit is a local historical figure who has lent his name to many things in the Malaysian capital, but perhaps none are as enduring as the neighborhood of Chow Kit. This district – northwest of the Petronas Twin Towers – is a dizzying mix of old and new, where residences and office buildings sit cheek by jowl with low-rise homes and independent businesses, lending it an urban, gritty atmosphere that’s fast disappearing in Kuala Lumpur.

Recently the area welcomed The Chow Kit, a 113-room property by Ormond Hotels. The hotel was designed by New York City-based firm Studio Tack, its inspiration courtesy of the late-night revelry that coursed through this former red-light district’s alleys and lanes in the ’70s and ’80s, as evidenced by the lodging’s intimate Wong Kar-Wai-esque aesthetics.

The kitchen and bar

Studio Tack was also influenced by the city’s use of terracotta brick as a foundation of modern Kuala Lumpur after the great fire of 1881 burnt down the then-town’s wood and attap buildings. “Brick-clad floors, hand-textured walls and rich colors pair with warm lighting to create a casual and comfortable environment,” senior designer Tiffany Rattray says.

Guests entering the establishment are greeted by a lobby that serves as a social parlor, one populated with deep tufted banquettes, lounge chairs and layered rugs – fabrics and textiles that would have been items of trade around town back in the day. On the same level, the Malaysian cuisine restaurant Chow Kit Kitchen features a design concept inspired by kopitiams (coffee shops), with whirring ceiling fans and tile floors, as well as lighting that brings to mind traditional Chinese lanterns.

The guest bedroom at The Chow Kit

Rooms are finished in wood and marble with matte black ceilings, while curated artworks from private collections or commissioned from local and regional artists are displayed throughout public areas and guest rooms. The rooftop’s weekly yoga and meditation sessions take place in a dedicated pavilion.

You can also take the hotel’s walking tours to further explore the district. “The property showcases great design and service while demonstrating a strong connection to an often overlooked part of old Kuala Lumpur,” Ormond Group CEO Gareth Lim says.

Explore Chow Kit in a day

  1. Chow Kit MarketUp north from the hotel is Chow Kit Market, Malaysia’s largest wet market with stalls selling fresh produce and spices.
  2. Yut Kee RestaurantFoodies can take a short stroll to Yut Kee Restaurant, a purveyor of Hainanese pork chop since 1928.
  3. Restoran Kudu Bin AbdulA 10-minute walk away, Restoran Kudu Bin Abdul has been serving up delectable rice and curries since 1969.
  4. Carribean and Italian fareCheck out new joints like Caribbean eatery Joloko and authentic Neapolitan pizza parlor Pizzeria Dihyang.
  5. The RowFinally, don't miss nearby Jalan Doraisamy, where over 20 reimagined shophouses from the 1940s have become The Row, an enclave of cool stores, restaurants and cafés.

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    Welcome to my city

    Designer Marga Nograles takes us on a tour of Davao City

    Discover Tagbilaran with graphic designer and artist Felix Mago Miguel

  • Explore
    • Things to see and do
    • Dining and nightlife
    • Arts and culture

    Neighborhood guide: Seoul's booming Euljiro scene

    Brewing up a wave in Hanoi

  • People
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    Drag queen Manila Luzon serves Philippine-inspired looks

    Her wish is for Bicol to become the country's next culinary destination

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