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Dining and nightlife

In Davao, a young chef is shaking up the culinary scene with his take on Asian dishes

Patrick Co reinvents dishes he's tasted on his travels at his two restaurants while keeping Covid-19 frontliners well fed

October 2, 2020

Text: Michael Ebro Dakudao

Images: Karlos Manlupig

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Davao City’s booming culinary scene has seen multiple restaurants opening around town over the past few years. Among the new breed of young restaurateurs is twentysomething Patrick Co, a graduate of the Center for Asian Culinary Studies in Manila and owner of two establishments off and along Victorino Mapa Street, a relatively quiet area compared to bustling Torres Street, Davao’s long-standing restaurant row.

At The Asian Cow, a casual dining restaurant painted in neutral black and gray tones, with bright furnishings as design accents, the young chef serves up colorful renditions of Asian dishes he’s tasted in his travels.

“I had beef cheek curry in Bangkok and that changed my perception of Thai cuisine. I used to think it was more about fruits, raw vegetables and fish,” he says. His version uses more coconut milk to give it a sweeter flavor and creamier texture that Davao’s diners prefer. You’ll also find Indonesian and Japanese dishes in the 30-item menu, which is supplemented by weekly specials.

A short walk away is The Fat Cow, where Co presents choice cuts of steak, ranging from US Angus to Japanese A5 wagyu, alongside bistro staples like salads and pasta dishes. Bathed in natural light, the restaurant boasts a sleek design favored by customers as well as celebrities. There’s also a cozy private dining room with an elaborate arch feature that gives guests the impression of being in a cow’s rib cage.

Despite the success of his ventures, Co isn’t resting on his laurels. “I believe my restaurants are still a work in progress. I am determined to stay in the food business for a long time.”

Co has also been actively supporting the city’s Covid-19 frontliners. As early as March 15, the chef has been leading community efforts to cook and pack thousands of meals for frontline personnel, such as hospital workers and officers manning the AFP and PNP checkpoints.

It’s an awe-inspiring showing of kindness, solidarity and bayanihan in the face of difficulty. “We must not forget and support our frontliners who are risking their lives for us every day. What we are doing is just a little help compared to what they do for us,” Co says.

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  • City guides
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    Welcome to my city

    Designer Marga Nograles takes us on a tour of Davao City

    Discover Tagbilaran with graphic designer and artist Felix Mago Miguel

  • Explore
    • Things to see and do
    • Dining and nightlife
    • Arts and culture

    Neighborhood guide: Seoul's booming Euljiro scene

    Brewing up a wave in Hanoi

  • People
    • Welcome to my city
    • Interviews
    • Travel essay

    Drag queen Manila Luzon serves Philippine-inspired looks

    Her wish is for Bicol to become the country's next culinary destination

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