Designer Marga Nograles takes us on a tour of Davao City

When I think of my childhood in Davao, what comes to mind is the time spent with my family. We live by the beach and, in Davao, moving from island to island is super-fast and easy. You could get from the white sand beaches to the mountains in 45 minutes – although traffic has become a bit challenging. I come from a big clan – the Garcias, Macedas and Montemayors – with lots of cousins and aunts, and everyone still gathers together every Sunday.

My mom, Mary Ann Montemayor, has been actively contributing to tourism and trade for Davao’s private sector. Because of that, she gets to work with different Philippine tribes. As a child, I remember her returning from her trips with beautiful jackets crafted by weavers and artisans. I didn’t quite appreciate these treasures at that time as I thought they looked too elaborate for everyday wear. Who knew that years later, I’d be their biggest champion?

My husband, Karlo, served three terms as congressman of the first district of Davao and is currently the Cabinet Secretary. As a politician’s wife, people would come to me for help. They have included Elena, one of my mother’s friends, and her daughter Gigi, who are from the T’boli tribe that lives around Lake Sebu in South Cotabato. Elena would bring me jackets made by the weavers and embroiderers, and I would buy and wear them. Soon my friends were asking about them, so I began posting the jackets on Instagram and selling them in Manila.

When I realized I could help promote Mindanao’s handicrafts through this platform, I was inspired to set up the same business model with other tribes. I work mainly with the T’boli, but also with the Bagobo Tagabawa of Bitaug, Davao del Sur, and around five other tribes in Mindanao. The past few years have seen more Filipinos supporting local brands, artisans and designers.

We now buy with a purpose. And artisans have a say in the matter; they can choose whom to work with and this makes them feel empowered and inspired. I’m so happy to see this surge of patriotism and interest in Philippine weaving. In 2016, I started Kaayo Modern Mindanao. Kaayo means kindness in Visayan, but it is also a superlative meaning “very” – like when you say someone is “guapo kaayo” (very handsome).

We have the basic jackets made in Manila before sending them to Davao for embellishment. One tribe does beading, and another, embroidery. Sometimes, another group weaves the fabric we turn into items or sends us woven or embellished strips, which I incorporate into more wearable pieces. The retail part of the business started last year after SM Aura Premier mall in Manila asked me to do a three-month pop-up store in July.

Then Ayala Malls broached the idea of a Christmas pop-up at Greenbelt 5 in Makati – which is still there at this time. My husband’s job is based in Malacañan Palace, so we relocated to Manila two years ago. I am so blessed that my three kids, aged 12, 9, and 8, had no problems adjusting to the move. But I still fly to Davao at least once a month, since I am the exclusive sub-distributor of Havaianas in southeast Mindanao and I have stores in the region.

Honestly, you can take the girl out of Davao City, but it will always be my home.

FRIDAY

9AM

When I’m in Davao, I stay with my parents in Insular Village. They live near the newly opened dusitD2 Davao Hotel, where I like to swim a few laps in the pool for about half an hour. After my workout, I’ll have the daing na bangus (fried smoked milkfish) with garlic rice for breakfast. dusitD2 also serves a great ensaymada (cheese and butter roll). Stella Hizon Reyes Drive, Barrio Pampanga

11AM

It’s time for a drive to the mountains to visit the Bagobo Klata tribe’s El’lom Weaving Center. The tribespeople have their own business and showroom that’s led by beauty queen Kessia Tar, who is one of their younger members. It’s a good place to buy woven fabric and watch them working the handlooms. Visitors might even get to meet the tribe’s 90-year-old weaver Apo Rita Agon, who is also the keeper of the Bagobo Klata’s weaving secrets.

12PM

Lunch at Maa To Ro Native Restaurant, an indigenous Bagobo eatery that’s right beside the weaving center, is next. It’s run by members of the Bagobo Klata clan and there’s live music from an old man playing kulintang, a modern term for an ancient instrumental form of music played on small, horizontal gongs. The eatery whips up a delicious dish of rice, chicken and shrimps steamed in bamboo. It also has pork cooked in leaves, pandan chicken and a unique blue rice they say is a secret recipe. The coffee, made with corn, is very good and they’re really proud of it. Purok Mirasol, Baguio Proper, Baguio District

2PM

The Philippine Eagle Center is a must-stop to watch the new show, “Raptors in Flight! A Flight Demonstration of the Philippine Eagle and Other Birds of Prey.” It’s wonderful to see these majestic birds – and they’re huge! The show is held every Saturday at 2pm, but you can also arrange for a private viewing for 30 people on other days. Davao is the home of the Philippine eagle and Philippine Eagle Foundation is trying its best to preserve the species. Malagos-Barangay Road, Baguio District 

4:30PM

I pay Davao-based sculptor Kublai Millan a visit. His family owns Ponce Suites Gallery Hotel and his works are permanently displayed there. He’s currently working on a Tagbanua sculpture for a resort in Coron, northern Palawan. He’s very talented and I love his work. Corner Road 3 & Road 4, Doña Vicenta Village, Bajada 

5:30PM

I squeeze in a quick round of shopping at Aldevinco Shopping Center, an institution for fruits as well as antiques, brassware, musical instruments and crafts, like Sarimanok figurines, batik and other fabrics. As it has been around for decades, it is worth shopping here and bargaining is a must. Clara M. Recto Avenue, Davao City; +63 82 226-4715

7PM

Dinner is at Unit 206 Damosa, a speakeasy and gastropub. You have to look for the door, enter a stockroom, climb the stairs, and go through a closet filled with jackets to enter the bar and restaurant. It serves delicious food such as salads and steak, but I love the crispy tenga chicharon (crunchy fried pig ears). I have a cinammon whiskey, too. Damosa Business Center, Lanang, Davao City; +63 916 261-5001

8:30PM

I meet up with my cousins and we go for after-dinner drinks at Huckleberry Southern Kitchen & Bar, a popular drinking joint in the city. We start a little early because the last call for drinks in Davao is 1am! Corner of Rizal Street and Bangoy Street, Davao City

SATURDAY

8AM

 

Breakfast is at Bramble Bakehouse, a lovely café in a compound that was transformed into a complex of restaurants and a small hotel. I go for the eggs Benedict and waffles with fruits and cream. The coffee and pastries are also good. 115 P. Pelayo Street, Poblacion District, Davao City

10AM

I take the time to visit the factories or homes of some Davao suppliers. Crystal Seas is a mother-and-daughter duo who makes and exports bags; I’ve been going to them for years. Davao AnMari Handmades produces beautiful straw bags as well.

11AM

I hit Abreeza Mall to check on my Havaianas store, and to do some shopping at T’nalak Home, a store owned by the Floirendo family of Davao. They work with banana fiber to make pillowcases, paper, and many other beautiful things that they export. Their factory is located right on their banana plantation.

12PM

Lunch is with my mom at Habi at Kape, also in Abreeza. Her two passions are Mindanao and food, so she has a small catering business and runs this café. She serves a regular pamainit (hot) buffet for merienda (afternoon snacks or a light meal), with goodies like pancit luglog (noodles with shrimp sauce). She also does Mindanao fusion, like chicken cooked with bananas in a sauce, sapin-sapin with leche flan (a rice cake with custard). My mom is busy with many things, but she lives for her grandkids. As I’m an only child, we’re very close. Because she looks so young, people think she’s my sister!

3PM

The Davao Crocodile Park & Zoo is a 3-ha property in Barangay Ma-a, where there is a 35-minute “Save Our Species” show that includes performances by a Palawan bearcat, a Burmese python, a Philippine fruit bat, which plays an important role in cross-pollinating our beloved durian, and other animals. There’s even an orangutan named Orange who eats durian on stage. You can help feed the orangutans and lion cubs, and visit a half-hectare bee farm which sells its honey at the gift shop. There’s also a spot called Crocodile Ice Cream that specializes in the exotic treat, which is made with crocodile eggs; the ice cream is a lot richer because the eggs have large yolks.

5:30PM

I like having merienda at my cousin’s Sunahama Noodle Bar, a new place and my favorite ramen house right now. She also serves a mean mushroom tempura.

8PM

Dinner is at a lovely new fusion Filipino restaurant by restaurateur Chris Pamintuan in the Oboza ancestral home, called Tola, Kan-anan sa Balay Oboza. Executive chef Rob Pengson from Manila helms the kitchen, which serves an amazing buko (coconut) pie and a really good kansi. It’s an Ilonggo recipe and a very popular dish in Negros that’s sometimes described as a cross between bulalo (a beef bone marrow soup) and sinigang (a sour pork soup).

9PM

We chase down our meal with drinks at Bar Botanica in the same complex. I order my favorite gin tonic, red wine, or white wine. If I’m ready to go home, however, I’ll have beer instead.

SUNDAY

8AM

Sundays are for island hopping, since most establishments in Davao City are closed. You can rent a boat to sail around the islands, but I arrange for a pick-up at a private port near dusitD2 Davao Hotel to The Beach Club at Lubi Plantation Resort, managed by the Dusit group. The resort is only about 40 minutes from Davao City and it’s always delightful to watch the dolphins playing in the water on the way there. I bring guests to Lubi for day trips or for an overnight stay in the resort’s seafront villas. I order the barbecue from the Tarictic Grill, but I also think it has the best ensaymada. Sculptor Bernardo Pacquing recently set up an installation piece there – a dome made of driftwood that’s meant to decompose naturally with time. This environmental piece has found the perfect setting in this coconut plantation.