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Welcome to my city

Explore Auckland with MasterChef NZ finalist Leo Fernandez

The veterinarian and pig farmer-turned-chef, originally from Pangasinan, takes us on a weekend foodie trip around the City of Sails

November 15, 2016

Text: As told to Tammy Collins

Images: Garth Badger

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Auckland is a long way from Laoac, Pangasinan, where I’m from. But this is home now, and my partners and I are setting up a Filipino restaurant in the heart of the city.

Back home, I was a registered veterinarian. My work ranged from teaching at a college in Tarlac to being a monkey breeder/vet on the island of Mindoro.

When I moved to New Zealand in July 2008, I couldn’t practice my profession. Instead, I got into dairy farming and then outdoor pig farming.

My plan was to go back to university so I could qualify and practice as a registered veterinarian in the Hurunui district north of Christchurch – but my life has since taken a completely new direction.

Auckland view from Mt Eden. PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

A family that loves to cook

I was never planning to be a chef, but I do come from a family of really good cooks. I grew up as the kitchen hand, chopping onions or peeling garlic.

When I moved overseas, I had to teach myself how to prepare a good meal. Food comforts me, so I relied on the memory of how dishes tasted, like my great-grandmother’s adobong pata ng baboy sa atsuete (pork hock adobo in annatto) or my mom’s dinuguan (pork blood stew).

I learned how to cook by reading books and articles on the internet, and watching food shows.

Life-changing moment

When I first watched MasterChef New Zealand, I knew it could teach me a thing or two. I got hooked on every episode and became fascinated by the idea of one day joining the reality show.

In 2015, I was shortlisted from hundreds of applicants, survived the unfilmed cooking audition, and the rest is history.

Since coming second on MasterChef New Zealand, my life has gone through a “mastershift”.

Opening a Pinoy restaurant in Auckland

From being a vet and pig farmer, I’m now a chef and partner of Azon, a restaurant that will open in November in Parnell, Auckland’s oldest suburb, and an area known for its trendy restaurants and cafés. (Ed’s note: Azon is now closed permanently.)

It’s definitely the place to go for good food and a great restaurant experience. I love the diversity in Auckland, where I can immerse myself in lots of different cultures.

It’s also booming, with heaps of good places to eat, drink and hang out. If you’re ever in Auckland for a weekend, here’s what I recommend to see, do and try.

Saturday

8AM

My day begins with a visit to La Cigale French Market (69 St Georges Bay Rd) in Parnell. They offer an amazing array of products and produce from France.

I like sourcing fresh ingredients here and gathering inspiration from what I discover, see and taste. I always wander around the market with a glass of freshly squeezed fruit juice and a croque monsieur – a French-style toasted ham and cheese sandwich – in hand.

Award-winning cheeses, pâtés and hot croissants can be picked up for a picnic later in the day.

La Cigale French Market

10.30AM

I browse a few shops along Parnell Road, such as Hattitude (2/235 Parnell Rd), where they sell fedoras made of discarded coffee sacks. Then it’s time for a smoko (local slang for mid-morning break) at Patisserie Vaniyé (1/7 Windsor St).  I chanced upon this hidden gem while setting up our restaurant, Azon.

A few Parisian-style desserts to take away from this little shop include the Paris-Auckland (choux pastry, caramel crémeux and dark chocolate mousse) and Ryoku (matcha green-tea mousse, vanilla crème brûlée and Azuki red bean). They’re perfect when paired with a steaming hot flat white – the Kiwi version of a latte, with less milk but more espresso.

12PM

From Parnell, I hop on the InnerLink bus (NZ$2.50 or P85 per person) and get off at Ponsonby Road. There are plenty of award-winning restaurants, gastropubs and bistros here, and I’m spoiled for choice as to where to go for lunch.

Giving in to my foodie cravings, I head to Ponsonby Central (136-138 Ponsonby Rd), an outdoor strip on the corner of Ponsonby Road and Richmond Road with chic cafés, eclectic boutiques and an organic produce market.

My quick lunch of choice is a lamb burger with mint yogurt, mustard, beetroot and feta at Burger Burger (The Lane, Ponsonby Central, 4 Brown St).

Burger Burger

4PM

From Ponsonby, I head back on the InnerLink bus and get off at Federal Street near the The Sky Tower (corner of Victoria & Federal Sts). Al Brown, one of the judges during my stint on MasterChef, owns Federal Delicatessen (86 Federal St), which is his version of an old-school New York City deli.

“The Fed” will transport you back to the 1950s while you wind down with your drink (mine is a bottle of Funk Estate IPA beer) and smoked kahawai (a type of New Zealand fish) cakes.

8PM

I finish off my night at the dining room of Orbit 360˚ (Level 52, The Sky Tower) restaurant, perched 190m above the ground in The Sky Tower. The restaurant rotates once every hour, providing guests with panoramic views of Auckland, the Hauraki Gulf and beyond as they feast on Kiwi-inspired cuisine.

SUNDAY

9AM

My first stop on Sunday morning is the Auckland Fish Market (22-23 Jellicoe St, Freemans Bay) in Freemans Bay.

With seafood stalls, a café, restaurant and cooking school, it doesn’t exactly look like your typical Asian wet market. Locals and tourists come for the fresh snapper, crayfish, mussels and oysters in this upscale fresh-food market.

I start my day off with fish and chips cooked fresh by Oceanz Seafood – reasonably priced at NZ$8.50 (P300). From the fish market, I take a leisurely 10-minute stroll over to the Viaduct Harbour. Here, I wander past over 30 bars and restaurants, all with gorgeous waterfront views.

Auckland Fish Market. PHOTOS: ANDREW WATSON

11AM

I’m off to Waiheke Island on the Hauraki Gulf for lunch – home to wineries, olive groves, restaurants, art galleries and beaches.

I buy my NZ$36 (P1,260) round-trip ticket and catch the Fullers ferry from the Ferry Terminal (99 Quay St) in downtown Auckland. I’ve scheduled il pranzo – a long Italian lunch – commencing at 12.30pm at Poderi Crisci (205 Awaawaroa Rd, Awaawaroa Bay).

This family-run restaurant serves excellent Italian cuisine complemented by wine from their own vineyard.

The dégustation menu delivers a slice of Italy on each plate: the antipasto of home-made grissini (breadsticks), the contorno (side dish) of lightly fried eggplant, the succulent costate (meat dishes) and the sweet finish – millefoglie, a pastry of many layers filled with cream and fruit.

5PM

It’s time to board the ferry back to Auckland City. The pleasant journey takes 40 minutes and offers stunning views of the islands in the Hauraki Gulf, including Rangitoto Island, a dormant volcano.

6.15PM

I stroll towards Princes Wharf, heading for The Crab Shack (137 Quay St).

It’s time to unwind while admiring Auckland’s famous waterfront views, so I order some of New Zealand’s fresh kaimoana, or seafood by the scoop: the green-lipped mussels and assorted Cloudy Bay clams (a mixture of Diamond Shell, Moon Shell and Tua Tua species), generously topped with chilli garlic cream.

As the sun sets over the harbor, I order an extra serving of tempura soft-shell crabs and wash them down with refreshing ice-cold beer – a stunning end to a perfect Auckland weekend.

Where the wild things are

  1. Auckland ZooThis zoo has the largest collection of native and exotic animals in the country. The New Zealand section is called Te Wao Nui and is divided into six ecological zones: Coast (seals, penguins), Islands (mainly lizards), Wetlands (ducks, herons, eels), Night (kiwi, native owls and weta), Forest (birds) and High Country (more birds and lizards). aucklandzoo.co.nz
  2. Muriwai BeachGreat waves often draw surfers to this windswept beach on the west coast, but the 1,200 pairs of gannets nesting in a colony is another great reason to make the visit. Visitors can take a walk along the boardwalk or sign up at the local surf school. aucklandnz.com/discover/muriwai
  3. Hauraki Gulf and islandsSign up for a whale or dolphin safari on the Hauraki Gulf. The local marine park is New Zealand’s largest marine reserve, with plenty of precious marine and birdlife. aucklandnz.com/discover/areas/hauraki-gulf-and-islands

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  • City guides
    • Philippines
      • Bacolod
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    Welcome to my city

    Designer Marga Nograles takes us on a tour of Davao City

    Discover Tagbilaran with graphic designer and artist Felix Mago Miguel

  • Explore
    • Things to see and do
    • Dining and nightlife
    • Arts and culture

    Neighborhood guide: Seoul's booming Euljiro scene

    Brewing up a wave in Hanoi

  • People
    • Welcome to my city
    • Interviews
    • Travel essay

    Drag queen Manila Luzon serves Philippine-inspired looks

    Her wish is for Bicol to become the country's next culinary destination

  • Stay
  • Shop
  • Philippine Airlines
  • Toggle Search

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    Bacolod

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    Kuala Lumpur

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