Discover Tagbilaran with graphic designer and artist Felix Mago Miguel

I’m not originally from Bohol – it’s my wife’s family on her mother’s side, the Falcons, who are from Tubigon, on the province’s western coast. In 2005, Amel and I wanted to eliminate the stress and pollution from the lives of our four children, Angin, Araw and the twins Ulap and Ulan. I guess we made the right choice: Within an hour of arriving in Bohol that year, Araw’s perennially clogged nose cleared up. Our youngest son, Langit, was later born in Tagbilaran. Now he’s 12, and the twins are 20.

What I love about this place are the peace and quiet, the views, the sea, the hills and the soothing sounds of birds and crickets. The sky here is a distinct shade of blue, the sunsets are always beautiful, the sea is calm – you’d need a typhoon to get surfing grade waves here.

 

I went to the Philippine High School for the Arts in Mount Makiling, Laguna, and studied fine arts at the University of the Philippines, where I met my wife.

After I graduated, a friend invited me to join Ilustrador Ng Kabataan, a group of children’s book illustrators, and that’s how my career started. I got into illustrating for children, and later I began designing books. It was for Lory Tan and his family’s publishing company, Bookmark, that I designed my first book from cover to cover, a twin set of Soledad Lacson-Locsin’s translations of national hero José Rizal’s novels – Noli Me Tángere and El Filibusterismo. I’ve worked on about 120 books since then, some of which have been recognized by the National Book Development Board and the Manila Critics Circle, among others.

The move to Tagbilaran has been good for us all. My kids watched me make art as they grew up, so they are all artists now as well. Although our pace of life remains fast sometimes because I’m still tied to my work in Manila – I fly there once a month to meet with clients and printers – there’s still time for my family. In the last two years, I’ve also gone around the country to teach public school teachers and young people about book design and illustration.

Recently, I’ve been working on oil-and-canvas paintings inspired by Philippine history. I’m preparing for a group show this year and an eventual solo show next year at the Eskinita Art Farm in Tanauan, Batangas.

In my spare time, I like to cycle. Before things got so busy, I used to bike around the island for hours, along the coast or up the hills to find a place to rest, meditate and soak in nature. People still come to Bohol for its natural beauty, and the attractions are close to each other, so you can do a lot in one day. Bohol is economically smaller than its neighboring provinces, so there’s less business – but there are always new restaurants, buildings and malls.

We were pretty shaken by the 7.2-magnitude earthquake of 2013 that damaged many old churches, most of which have been restored. Except for a few houses and the ruins of old bridges, there’s little evidence of the destruction left. To us, there’s no place like Bohol. Even on our occasional vacations in Manila, we look forward to returning home – when it’s time to leave (and even if they had fun during their trip), my children always say, “At last, we’re going back to the green.”

SATURDAY

7AM

I start the day with an early breakfast at Tamper Coffee & Brunch, where I bring some work to do. The coffee is good, and the servings are hearty enough for two people – my wife, Amel, and I can split the tocino (sweet cured pork, a popular Filipino breakfast dish), which comes with two eggs and a lot of rice. P Del Rosario St corner Carlos P Garcia East Ave, Poblacion, Tagbilaran 

9AM

Next, I visit the Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary in the nearby municipality of Corella. This is not a touristy operation; it’s run by the Philippine Tarsier Foundation, Inc, and the animals can be observed in their natural habitat. There’s over a hundred of them in this area spanning 167 hectares. It’s low-impact, and very respectful of this little primate species that has made Bohol famous. Tarsier Sanctuary Rd, Corella

10:30AM

I drop in at the National Museum Bohol, housed in a historic building constructed in 1860 that used to be the Provincial Capitol, and was damaged in the October 2013 earthquake. It was restored and reopened in 2018, and now includes exhibitions on the reconstruction work that has been done on Bohol’s historic properties. Carlos P Garcia Ave, Tagbilaran infonmbohol@gmail.com

12PM

It’s time for a good old home-cooked lunch, and, in my book, the best homestyle food can be found at Susan’s Kilawin, a carinderia (small eatery). If you want to see where the locals stop for a quick meal, this is it. I call beforehand to check if the specials are available, like the balbacua, a Visayan dish made of cow skin and cartilage, slow-cooked for hours into a thick, flavorful stew. Ask around to find Susan’s, though, because the place has no signage! Airport Rd corner Aquino Ave, Cogon, Tagbilaran; +63 92 0422 9101

1:30PM

Punta Cruz is one of my favorite historical spots in Bohol, a unique triangular watchtower built in 1796 for looking out for invaders along the coast. It was damaged in the 2013 earthquake, but survived. As the coastline rose by about 1.5m after the disaster, the beach near it has become a geological monument of sorts and is now called the Maribojoc Uplifted Marine Terrace. It’s an interesting reminder of the power of nature. Barangay Punta Cruz, Maribojoc

3PM

Amel and I drive to Antequera, about 25 minutes from Tagbilaran, to buy some decorative items for the house. The municipality is known as the basketmaking center of Bohol, and the artisans have been weaving baskets here since the 1900s. They still do, using different vines and working from their homes. At the well-run tourism center, I pick out some woven spheres I’d like to turn into lamps, and Amel picks out a sturdy market basket. Antequera Tourism Information Center LGU Compound, Poblacion, Antequera municipalityofantequera@yahoo.com

4:30PM

I like the Dauis Church (Church of Our Lady of the Assumption) because of the scenic view of the sea behind it; it’s a great place to sit and relax as the sun sets. The church, built in 1697, has been declared a national historical landmark. Its bell tower made of coral stones once doubled as a watchtower. It also suffered some damage after the earthquake, but restoration work on it has been completed. Circulado St, Poblacion, Dauis; +63 3 8502 3141

6:30PM

We didn’t stop for snacks, so I’m hungry enough for an early dinner at Gerarda’s Place, a local dining institution. The setting is elegant, and the food is home-cooking done very well. I order the seafood kare-kare (peanut stew) and dinakdakan – Gerarda’s version is a variation on the original Ilocano dish, with chopped pork belly, coconut milk, chili and onions. The pinaupong manok – which literally means “seated chicken”, as it’s a whole chicken cooked “seated” on a bed of salt – comes with a wonderful sauce. 30 JS Torralba St, Tagbilaran; +63 3 8412 3044

8:30PM

That big meal has left me with enough energy for an after-dark nature activity – firefly-watching on the Abatan River Firely Tour in Cortes. The guides describe the insects as “nature’s Christmas lights”, and they’re really quite a sight, especially on moonless nights. I book a boat for the last tour of the night for my family. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can take a kayak (which is more environmentally friendly) with a guide down this meandering river surrounded by mangroves – another reminder of how green Bohol still is. Abatan River Firefly Tour Abatan River Visitor Center, Salvador, Cortes

SUNDAY

6AM

You can’t come to Bohol without heading to the beach. As a treat for the kids, we’ve prepared a picnic breakfast from a local institution, Jojie’s Pa-initang Bol-anon. After breakfast, we meet with our favorite boatman, Tirso Ga-as, who takes us out for some dolphin-watching in the waters between Baclayon and Pamilacan, an island of white sand 45 minutes away by boat. What’s amazing is that Pamilacan used to be the home of whale hunters; today, there’s a marine sanctuary on the island where you can snorkel. There’s also a 200-year-old watchtower right on the beach. On the way there, we’re blessed with sightings of huge pods of spinner dolphins. Jojie’s Pa-initang Bol-anon,  G/F, Island City Mall, Rajah Sikatuna Ave, Tagbilaran; +63 3 8411 0462;  Tirso Ga-as (boats for rent), Baclayon; +63 90 9667 6069 

 

9AM

Back from the island, we drop by the Baclayon Church and Museum, one of the Philippines’ oldest churches, completed in 1727. The church was also recently restored after the earthquake, and the altar is a sight to behold. Bohol Circumferential Rd, Baclayon; +63 3 8540 9176

11:30AM

The Chocolate Hills in Carmen are a wonder that never gets old. In the summer, the hills – Bohol’s most iconic geological landmarks, said to have risen from the sea – are dry and brown. I find they’re also beautiful and green after the rainy months, though. Highway, Poblacion, Bilar

1PM

We make a stop at another well-run wildlife attraction that’s far from the crowds: Habitat Bohol Wildlife Adventure, a butterfly sanctuary in Bilar. My favorite guide, Mike, has a hilarious but very informative spiel. One of the stores here sells delicious, homemade ice cream called – what else? – Madame Butterfly. The sanctuary is also a stop for birdwatchers visiting the nearby Rajah Sikatuna Protected Landscape, where there are grasslands, limestone hills and natural springs.

2:30PM
By now we’re starving, so it’s back to Baclayon for a late lunch at 10:31 by Chef M, a charming family-run restaurant. I usually order the beef kaldereta, a rich stew with tomato sauce and vegetables, or a flavorful seafood chowder that’s also good for sharing. Taguihon, Baclayon

5PM

It’s time to shop for goodies, and among the most popular in Bohol are the melt-in-your-mouth broas (ladyfinger-like biscuits), a Baclayon specialty that’s made in a clay oven at traditional places like Osang’s. Another Boholano delicacy is ubi kinampay, a dessert made from a special variety of purple yam grown in Bohol and known for its rich taste, which we buy from the Luza Ancestral House. A Realista St, Baclayon +63 3 8540 9072

6PM

We arrive early at local chef Vicky Wallace’s famous Bohol Bee Farm for some more food shopping – the carrot muffins are a hit with my kids – and some drinks before dinner. I choose a glass of magenta-colored dragon fruit juice, but there are margaritas and mojitos for those who prefer cocktails.

For dinner, we sit alfresco on the deck with a view of the sea while enjoying an organic garden salad (with edible flowers!), spicy honey pizza with mango and pork ribs served with red rice. A friend tries the malunggay (moringa) ice cream, and says it tastes just like the vegetable, but creamy. Dao, Dauis, Panglao Island

9PM

I save my dessert appetite for another family favorite, Mosia Cafe, a cute dessert space run by animal rescuers and named after one of their beloved dogs. It’s open till late and has nice coffee blends. Catching up over homemade cakes and pies with family and friends is a wonderful end to a perfect day in Bohol. 121 Venancio P Inting Ave, Tagbilaran