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Neighborhood guide: Seoul’s booming Euljiro scene

Locals say that you can get anything made in Euljiro, Seoul’s historic manufacturing hub. These days, that even includes cocktails, coffees and unusual souvenir alternatives

Minah Park, owner of Studio Chlorophyll

September 11, 2020

Text: Joshua Zukas

Images: II Eun

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The industrial heart of Seoul during the city’s postwar economic boom in the 1960s, Euljiro Street is home to alleyways packed with thousands of bustling manufacturing workshops. These backstreets now boast hidden bars, cafés and trendy stores that are mostly clustered around the Euljiro 3-ga subway station. Visit now before it’s too late, as the neighborhood’s prime location in central Seoul means sizeable sections will be lost to redevelopment projects in the coming decade.

After Jerk Off

No two chairs are alike at After Jerk Off, a speakeasy café that boasts an assortment of retro lamps and a hypnotic fish-tank bar. The space, which opened in February, is just south of Euljiro 3-ga station and hides on the fourth floor of a nondescript building behind an unmarked white door. Classic hip-hop emanates from the speakers while large windows offer commanding views over the area’s mismatch of rooftops and skyscrapers. Try the signature Jerk Coffee, a smooth blend of drip coffee, sweet cream and a pinch of smoked salt.

Barista’s at speak easy cafe in front of the exotic fish tank at “After Jerk Off'”

Kenektid X Bookstore

You’ll find this one-year-old bookstore nestled among Euljiro’s electronics stores and repair workshops in Sewoon Sangga, one of South Korea’s oldest shopping malls. The simple set-up has undeniably charming surroundings. “If you look to the left outside of the store, there’s a beautiful mountainscape,” says founder Sungho Kim, who enjoys the visual contrasts offered by the location. “Look right, and you see crazy skyscrapers and busy city life.” Besides Korean literature, you’ll find here a tempting selection of souvenir alternatives, such as retro posters and funky apparel.

The front window at Kenektid X Bookstore

Manseon Hof

Manseon Hof is a wildly popular nighttime Korean restaurant that spreads itself over three floors before spilling onto a bustling sidestreet just north of Euljiro Street. It’s a prime spot to sample South Korean street food and people-watch, but you’ll also find tightly packed tables inside to escape the chill in winter. Ice-cold glasses of draft beer are served almost immediately but you can request a bottle of soju (or two) to liven up the party. Order the garlic chicken, a specialty dish, along with one of the hearty hotpots. 19 Eulji-ro 13-gil, Euljiro 3(sam)-ga, Jung-gu

The bustling nightlife at Manseon Hof

Mmmio

Surrounded by small printing businesses, Mmmio is located on Chungmu-ro 5-gil, an atmospheric alleyway 20m south of Euljiro Street. Along with 35 rooms, this eight-story boutique hotel offers a co-working space, café, bar, kitchen and living space for watching movies. The hotel doubles as an interior design studio and the rooms showcase its capabilities, so expect crisp interiors, innovative space optimization and the use of natural light on the upper floors.

Ace Four Club

If you like smooth jazz playlists and cozy mood lighting, head to Ace Four Club, which opened at the end of last year on Euljiro Street. To soak in the busy atmosphere of the district, nab a spot by the broad window overlooking the roaring street. But for those who prefer a more quiet evening, settle down at one of the candlelit tables or perch at the eight-seater bar and have a chat with the bartender. Not sure what to drink? You can’t go wrong with classic cocktails such as the Old Fashioned or Gimlet.

Candlelit bar at Ace Four Club

Studio Chlorophyll

For a completely different experience, consider a flower arranging workshop at Studio Chlorophyll. This flower shop and arrangement studio located just off Euljiro Street is the brainchild of blossom-loving owner Minah Park. “In college, I studied Korean traditional painting, which has a very nature-friendly worldview,” she says, explaining the motivations behind the project. “That’s when I first became attached to flowers.” Contact her through Instagram to arrange on-demand workshops where she’ll teach creative floral combinations, from traditional displays to contemporary bouquets.

A beautiful floral arrangement by Studio Chlorophyll

Seendosi

Hit this speakeasy to close the night before stumbling home to bed. Nestled on the fifth floor of a rundown apartment building just off Cheonggyecheon Street, Seendosi has no discernible signage, so look out for its edgy logo instead: three large symbols in blue, red and green. This alternative dive bar boasts trippy lighting, a pumping electronica soundtrack and a rooftop space for art installations. You won’t write home about the cocktails, so go for a Red Rock Lager or White Pale Ale instead. Live trance and house music events take over the space on the weekends, so look out for updates on the bar’s website.

Psychedelic light installations at Seendosi

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    Welcome to my city

    Designer Marga Nograles takes us on a tour of Davao City

    Discover Tagbilaran with graphic designer and artist Felix Mago Miguel

  • Explore
    • Things to see and do
    • Dining and nightlife
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    Neighborhood guide: Seoul's booming Euljiro scene

    Brewing up a wave in Hanoi

  • People
    • Welcome to my city
    • Interviews
    • Travel essay

    Drag queen Manila Luzon serves Philippine-inspired looks

    Her wish is for Bicol to become the country's next culinary destination

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